Monday, January 25, 2010

Tinsmith family inherits tools of the trade


BY MARIA GALLUCCI
The News
Jan. 21, 2010

Ask Salvador and Mauro Rangel Rodríguez what the best part of their artisan tinwork is, and they'll repeat the same phrase over and over again like a mantra: It's handmade. 100 percent made by hand.

The father-son duo is part of a six-member and family-run tinsmith business that on a weekly basis churns out around 15 full-length mirrors and a handful of lamps, picture frames and angel statues from a humble workshop in Ecatepec, in the State of Mexico. The enterprise has already grown far beyond its small shop in Mexico City's Ciudadela crafts market and is reaching a high-end clientele in the United States, South Africa and Japan.

“This is the inheritance that our ancestors have left us, and that our families continue to work,” Salvador said from inside the Centro Histórico shop while standing in front of a wall shining floor to ceiling with embossed and hole-punched tinwork, or “hojalata.”

“Today, there are more machines and tools, but our work continues to be more rustic than that. We haven't lost our tradition, and our products have a higher value and uptake as a result of being handmade,” said the tinsmith, who was born in Houston and maintains business ties there.

Artesanías Rangel has been selling its wares at the Ciudadela since 1975, although Salvador said he had been honing his skills as an “hojalatero,” or tinsmith, for 10 years longer. As he learned the trade from his father, who learned the trade from his father, the tinsmith has passed the legacy down to Mauro, who said he would undoubtedly teach his own offspring the traditional tin artisanry.

“It's good that [my children] learn it so that the business can continue generation after generation, so that it continues to be 100 percent Mexican, and not China-made, and so that Mexico will always remain a country of artisans,” Mauro said.

The tinsmiths offer a variety of decorative touches made from sheet metal, bronze and copper, including sacred heart plaques, multi-pointed Moravian star lamps and glass-lined showcases. More utilitarian pieces offered in the form of bowls, platters and plates would bring an antique and homespun touch to any table.

The mirror, on the other hand, remains the family operation's pièce de résistance, with an infinite variety of free standing, hanging and smaller vanity mirrors offering a range of designs. Delicate etchings in smooth metal sheets create a puzzle-like look or an elegant floral design on the mirror frames. A meticulous series of punched holes or rough stamping can form tiny buttons or a widespread series of waves, curves and textures.

“Every year we put out new models. Our inspiration comes from our imagination. It starts by sketching, or sometimes you see a design in dreams and draw it when you wake up. Every piece is unique,” Mauro explained, adding that custom designs are also available.

Before the details, however, come the materials. The “hojalateros” begin by dipping thin sheets of iron into molten tin, a process that coats the sheets with a sleek corrosion-resistant shield. The lightweight tin can then be folded, cut, soldered and hole-punched into whatever the tinsmith's whims dictate.

Salvador noted that the biggest hardship the artisan family faces revolves around the rising prices of primary materials, as artisan work often requires large investment and capital, both financially and physically.

While Artesanías Rangel remains the only tinsmith shop in the Ciudadela, and in most of Mexico City, for that matter, the artisan tradition is flourishing in the state of Oaxaca and charming colonial cities such as Guanajuato and San Miguel de Allende, where craftsmen have gained international acclaim for their tinwork.

The tinware craft first took off in London in the 1630s, and it became a reputable office in the Americas through British colonization in the 17th and 18th centuries. The popular folk art took off with the Spanish conquistadors across the northern Mexican territory, which today includes United States entities such as California, Nevada and Arizona, among others. The Museum of Spanish Colonial Art in Santa Fe, New Mexico today boasts an impressive collection of the metallic crafts.

Tinsmiths have since peddled their trade down into central and southern Mexico, where demand from international collectors and crafts fans has resulted in a lucrative export business for some artisans. Customers in general are increasingly seeking a one-on-one connection with artists and artisans, opting to shell out slightly more cash for higher quality and handcrafted goods, rather than purchase a cheaper, machine-made piece shipped in from some faraway country.

“In our business, there are families behind every single product, not just any odd worker,” Salvador said. “What has been missing [in society] is the value of getting to know the artisan, which is very important.

“This is the way of living for many of our families, so our responsibility is to keep moving forward, to give great service to our clients and to earn respect and acceptance within our market. This is what we have learned to do, and we're not going to leave it behind,” he said.

Thursday, January 14, 2010

Fashion festival favors screen over runway


BY MARIA GALLUCCI
The News
Thursday, Jan. 14

Lights. Camera. Fashion.
That's the main idea behind A Shaded View on Fashion Film (ASVOFF), an international style film festival set to screen in Mexico City later this month.

The 90-minute show, now in its second edition, includes competition pieces, documentaries, features and installations studying the “drama, power and personification that fashion evokes and commands on screen,” according to ASVOFF.

Since its September 2009 debut at the Passage du Désir gallery in Paris, the typically three-day festival has traveled to fashion capitals around the world. In Mexico, the films will be shown for one night on Wednesday, Jan. 20 at the Teatro Metropólitan in the Centro Histórico.

Diane Pernet, festival curator and fashion critic, photographer and designer, recently talked with The News about the project, which is produced in Mexico by the Trendsétera marketing boutique.

The News: How did you develop the idea for a film festival dedicated to fashion, style and beauty?

DP: It all started about ten years ago. I was making low-fi documentary films on designers and other creative [types] and thought that it would be great to create a fashion film festival, but at that time, there just was not enough material.

In 2006, Mark Eley, of the brand Eley Kishimoto, asked me to make a road movie for the launch of their menswear brand. I was in the support van for the Gumball 3000 road rally, which went from Trafalgar Square to Monte Carlo, or 3,000 miles (4,828 km) in six days. My blog's Los Angeles correspondent at the time saw the film and asked me if I wanted to project it in L.A.
A few days later, [Mexican designer] Enrique Gonzales, or EGR, sent me a film that he had made. I liked it and posted it on my Web site, and that is where and when the idea for my first fashion festival was born. So, Mexico City via EGR played a very important part in the birth of my fashion film festival.

In September 2008, ASVOFF was launched at the Jeu du Paume contemporary art museum in Paris.

The News: What does the festival's title mean, and to what does it refer?

DP: A Shaded View on Fashion Film is the name of my blog, and ASVOFF is an extension of my blog. “A Shaded View” refers both to my sunglasses and my interests in fashion, film, art and architecture.

The News: How did you see the need for a project like this? What void do you think the festival fills?

DP: Since I was a child, I have been interested in both fashion and film. To join the two seems like a natural progression to me. My degree is in filmmaking and I was a designer for my own brand in New York City for 13 years. As a fashion journalist, I've seen thousands and thousands of fashion shows, and over the past few years, I've been feeling that for the most part watching models walk up and down the runway seems very last century.

I'm not saying that fashion films will replace runway shows, but it's not such a bad idea. At any rate, it is another platform for designers and filmmakers to interact and reach a worldwide audience. Another point is that in the current financial crisis, it seems a bit outrageous to spend $50,000-plus for a seven minute fashion show that will reach a maximum of 500 people whereas a fashion film can be enjoyed in a cinema setting or reach hundreds of thousands of viewers via the Internet. The exposure helps to establish the brand.

The News: What are the main objectives of the film festival, and what do you hope that viewers will take away from it?

DP: My dream with the traveling film festival is to discover new talents everywhere we go and to be able to showcase them in future festivals. I am interested in how fashion and film can support and strengthen each other. Often directors do not understand the power of fashion and are somehow afraid of it.

ASVOFF is international, so the idea is to find talents from all around the planet. ASVOFF is launched in Paris, and then it travels. The 2008 debut led to screenings at the Guggenheim Bilbao in Spain, the Chelsea Arts Club in London and Cinema Rise X in Tokyo.
I think brands would be better served with a film and an installation. It's not as though designers have never used films before in place of shows, but it is more recognized as a valid way to communicate and reach volumes of people all around the world. That combined with the rise of e-commerce makes the creating of a film a good choice.

Fashion demands movement, and although I love a beautiful spread in a magazine, I also enjoy seeing things that a frozen fashion image cannot provide. Another objective of the festival is that it will inspire the viewers to go out and pick up a camera and collaborate and make a film.

The News: Why else is it important that the Paris-based festival travel around the world?

DP: The launch of the festival is in Paris, but the content is completely international. Fashion films are about what is to come for the future. Everyone from Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent (YSL) and Prada to unknown but emerging designers are opting for using the medium of film to express their fashion.

The News: Could you elaborate on the concept that the festival studies the drama of fashion on screen? How does the festival evaluate these aspects?

DP: Fashion and film have been in bed together for a long time. In the late 1970s, Guy Bourdin showed amazing short fashion films, but it has not been until the past few years that fashion films have really taken off. Fashion nurtures and inspires on-screen ideals of glamour; actresses spark desire in their fans, stars need that perfect dress for the red carpets, and designers are only happy to satisfy their [clients'] needs.

The genre of fashion film combines art, film, photography and an acute sensibility for fashion. This edition, we decided to separate the films by the designer's role in the filmmaking process. If a designer or brand commissioned a film and therefore retained some kind of control over the end result, we grouped these films together and called that section “Communication.” If the film was created by artists, filmmakers and stylists and had as its sole objective to express their vision of fashion or beauty, without knowing the designer's intentions or wanting to further them, we called this group “Reflection.” So the more art- and fashion-friendly films would come under this heading.

For more details, visit www.ashadedviewonfashionfilm.com

Sunday, January 10, 2010

Los Kitsch leads local electroclash scene


BY MARIA GALLUCCI
The News
Jan. 8, 2010

If the electroclash movement - a fusion of New Wave, synthetic pop and electronic dance music - has recently lost some of its steam in Europe and the United States, the musical genre has found a second wind in studios and on stages across Mexico.

The young musicians of the Mexico City-based Los Kitsch, for one, have found budding success with their electroclash tunes among a group of fans mostly born just before the movement's start in the mid-1990s.

The rock-pop group is set to release its first EP next month, a five-track disc that will hit the streets on February 2. Songs are already available free of charge on the Los Kitsch's Web site and Myspace page, where the band says it receives around 300 hits, or clicks to listen, on a daily basis.

“In Mexico City, there are many bands similar to the [electroclash] genre, but as far as we know, we're the only band here who actually plays this style of music,” said Diego Huidobro, who plays guitar and synthesizer in the two-member group.

Pamelo Merodio provides the band's punk-like and atonal vocals, and although the group began two years ago with three additional members, today invited musicians and guest bands accompany Los Kitsch in recording tracks and performing live.

Electroclash music began hitting concert halls and airwaves in Munich, Berlin, New York City and Detroit more than a decade ago, but the genre truly gained international recognition after a 2001 electroclash concert in New York put the underground movement on the map.

New York-based deejay Larry Tee coined the movement's terminology shortly thereafter, crafting a name derived from the 1980s electropop bands who have principally influenced the genre. As the electroclash scene has slowly faded in the United States and some European cities, the genre is gaining new ground in places such as Mexico City, Barcelona and Rio de Janeiro.

While variations of electroclash might feature stronger notes of punk or harder electronic rhythms reminiscent of nightclubs, Los Kitsch offers a light blend of electric guitar, quick and catchy beats with simple, repetitive lyrics in English and Spanish.

Songs like “Give Me” and “Dance,” for example, have a very pop-oriented and upbeat feel, with slightly deadpan vocals and loud guitar riffs keeping adrenaline levels high throughout the tracks.

“No Puedo” (“I Can't”) and “Radio Tonite,” on the other hand, slow down the party tempo a bit for a more mellow, yet edgier, sound.

“Our songs are about the everyday and about having fun,” Merodio explained, citing as inspiration Icelandic musician Björk, U.S. electroclash group Le Tigre, and folk singer Bob Dylan.

Huidobro added, “The lyrics are basically about the happenings and problems of post-adolescence,” topics that are particularly relevant to the pair of 21-year-old musicians.

The guitarist, however, noted that his and Merodio's age has been more of an advantage than a roadblock for the up-and-coming group.

“It's good to start young, because we have more time to seek out the right path, and with all the support we've received from the [Grabaciones Jamaica] studio and from those who have more experience than we do, we've had a much easier time with our project,” he said.

Since its start, Los Kitsch has steadily progressed from an Internet-focused project posting songs and videos online to a group that gives energy-infused performances across the country. The duo is set to perform shows with invited musicians in Puebla and Guadalajara later this month, as well as an EP-release show on February 2 at the Imperial rock club in Mexico City's Roma Norte neighborhood.

The band has also scored commercial recognition from major labels, including Nike, Red Bull and guitar company Gibson. Converse de México features the group's latest single “Corazón” (“Heart”) on its Web site, and Mexican beer giant Indio includes Los Kitsch among the site's featured Latin American bands.

Huidobro said that he hoped to take Los Kitsch this year to more prominent stages at Latin American festivals and throughout the region. He noted that while the group will likely release a second EP this year and possibly a complete album, the discs would be sold more for the cover art than to earn cash from the music.

“We give away our music, but what we like to sell and what people have asked us for is the visual art” produced by local artist “Sutra,” he said.

For more details, visit www.loskitsch.com or www.myspace.com/loskitschband